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Ice Climbing Alpamayo - Quitaraju Mountain Peruvian - South America

- Altitude Lake 69Trek. :  4,400m
- Altitude Alpamayo Climbing :  5.947m.
- Altitude Quitaraju Climbing :

 6036m.

- Duration :  12 Days
- Difficulty : AD.
- Climbing Season : April to October
- Route Alpamayo Climbing : Directa Francesa.
- Route Quitaraju Climbing : Cara N.
- Start Climb. : Lima – Perú – South América.

The climb of Quitaraju uses the same access route as Alpamayo, since it is located next to it. However, the 800m vertical ice wall (60-80°) is more technical, and the descent follows a different route.

Itineray:
1st day: Arrival at Lima, transfer from the airport to the hotel in Lima
2nd day: Lima – Huaraz (bus).
Transfer to Huaraz (distance: 400 km from Lima), passing the Conococha (4,050m), transfer from the bus-station to the hotel.
3rd day: Acclimatization trek to Lake 69 (4,400m).
We leave Huaraz heading north, at kilometer 55 we arrive at the city of Yungay. From there we drive by taxi to the lakes of Llanganuco. A bit later we arrive at Cebollapampa (3.900m). From that place we start walking for about 4 hours until the Lake 69. The lake offers a beautiful view to the summits of the mountains Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Pisco, Huandoy, Yanapaccha and Chacraraju. We stay at the lake for one hour before we return to Cebollapampa. From there we drive back to Huaraz - Hostal.
Logistics and preparing the technical gear for the expedition.

4th day: Huaraz (3,090m) – Cashapampa (2,900m) - Ichiccocha Lake (3,840m).
Bus ride from Huaraz to the village of Cashapampa (2,900m) at the entrance of Santa Cruz Valley. Here we meet the arriero and donkeys who will help transport the gear from Cashapampa to Ichiccocha Lake.

5th day: Ichiccocha - Jatuncocha Lake - Q. Arhuaycocha - base camp of Alpamayo (4,400m).
From the lake, we climb on a zigzag trail to reach the base camp of Alpamayo.

6th day: base camp of Alpamayo (4,400m) to Col of Alpamayo(5,300m).
We reach the moraine and then enter the glacier to climb to camp 1, on 45 - 60 degree hard packed snow. The climb takes approx. 5 hours.

7th day: Col of Alpamayo (5,300m) - Summit Alpamayo (5,947m).
We start before dawn from Col of Alpamayo to the base of Rimaya and after passing it, we enter the ice flutes on the Directa Francesa route, which leads to the ridge and finally the summit (5,947m) – C1.

8th day: Camp 1 (5,300m) - summit Quitaraju (6,036m) – C1.
We start the ascent at 3 am for a 5 hour ascent of the ice wall. After reaching the summit, the descent takes 3 hours to camp 1.

9th day: Camp 1 (5,300m) - Base camp.
Descend to base camp of Alpamayo and establish camp.

10th day:  Base camp to Jatuncocha – Cashapampa – Huaraz – Hostal.
Return to Jatuncocha and Ichicocha Lake, the mid-point betweeen base camp and Cashapampa. From the glacier, the descent takes about 6 hours to Cashapampa.

11th day: Travelling back to Lima (bus) – Hotel.
Transfer to Lima (hostal).
12th day: Lima, transfers from hotel to airport. Return to country of origin.

EXPEDITION COSTS INCLUDE:
- When you arrive to Lima we pick up you to the hotel by taxi.
- 2 nights lodging in Lima (double bed.)
- When you arrive to Huaraz we pick up you to the hotel by taxi.
- 3 nights lodging in Huaraz (double bed, breakfast included)
- Bus transportation Lima – Huaraz. (Service VIP).
- Private local transportation Huaraz /Cebollapampa/Huaraz.
- Private local transportation Huaraz /Cashapampa/Huaraz.
- Mountain guide (IUAGM) Climb.
- Porters carry camping equipment Cb - C1 (Quitaraju Mountain)
- Cook, specialized in cooking normal and vegetarian meals
- Donkeys to carry the common gear (tents, food and fuel) as well as donkeys to carry personal gear (up to 20 kg per person)
- Kitchen gear and cooking facilities at base camp (including dining tent, chairs, cooking tent).
- Food for the whole duration of the climb (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is included.
- The meals include: omelets, sups, fresh fruits, ahuacate, spaghettis meats, rice all them rich in carbohydrates, excellent to recover all the energy you lose during the trek and climbing, also include drinks as: tea, coffee, milk breads, popcorn and coco tea good for altitude sickness
- Climbing gear: rope, aluminum stakes, ice screws
- Camping gear: 4 season tent
- First aid kit
- Check-up for oxygen to assess acclimatization level of each client.
Not included:
- Food costs outside the climb (Lima and Huaraz).
- Entry to National Park Huascarán.
- Flight from country of origin to Lima
- Extra days of lodging due to delays of the trip
- Personal trekking and climbing gear (plastic boots, harness, ice axes, sleeping bag, sleeping mattress etc..)
- Personal expenses.

Route Climbing Quitaraju Mountain : Cara N.


Route Climbing Alpamayo Mountain : Directa Francesa


Recommended gear:

Lightweight walking shoes/sandals/socks/pants/short pants/T-shirts (long sleeve and short sleeve)/sunglasses/sunscreen/plastic bags/warm sleeping bag /light weight trekking boots/wool socks/light weight treeking pants/waterproof pants and jacket/fleece/Goretex/hat/mits or warm gloves/thermal liners/camera/bandana or hat against sun/headlamp with extra batteries.

Safety Individual gear:

Glacier glasses 100% UV with rigid case (2 pair recommended)/ goggles/ sunscreen with maximum protection/lipbalm/4 season sleeping bag/ sleeping pad or thermarest/hat/thermal underwear/fleece jacket/fleece pants/down jacket/Goretex jacket or similar material/2 pairs of gloves or mittens/ pair of thermal glove liners/2 pairs of thermal sock liners/plastic boots/gaiters.

Important Informations:

  • We recommend to make a before reservation because the price is economyc, this before reservation you can to do whit a ...% all price and finally ....% you can to page in huaraz when you will arrive, you would to make this reservation ... before months.
  • We consider you to spend the two nights at the hostal ** as shown: The first night when you arrive at Huaraz and the second night if you return from the trekking. If you want to stay longer at Huaraz we can offer you a price of S/.... Nuevo Soles per person at the Hostal la Cordillera, Oscar´S (incl. hot water, priate bathroom, TV, cafeteria).The hostal is placed three squares away from the plaza de armas of Huaraz
  • We recommend you the transport from Lima to Huaraz by the following concerns:
  • Cruz del sur. Web: http://www.cruzdelsur.com.pe/
  • Movil Tours. Web: http://www.moviltours.com.pe/

The service of the bus-concerns incl:
• two-floor-buses
• second level / Seats at “bus cama”
• Seat belts for every seat
• Laser-radar for detecting objects at the street (until a distance of 150m)
• Internal Video-camera
• two toilets
• traveling direct to Huaraz
• breakfast and/or lunch and/or dinner
• Service
• Movies
• Music
• Air- condition or heating
• Individual light
• Bingo-Game
The price is about S/. ......Nuevo Soles per person. We can take a reservation for you for traveling Lima – Huaraz –Lima.

 
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Contact information / Información de contacto:
Phone/Fax Number / Teléfono/Fax:
00 + 51 - 43 - 425362 - Perú

: 00 + 51 - 43 - 943816061 
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info@enriqueexpedition.com
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enriqueexpeditions@hotmail.com

Sudamérica - Perú - Huaraz

Perú - Enrique Expedition Tours - 2000_Todos los Derechos Reservados.