Climbing Quitaraju Mountain

Altitude: 6.040 m.

Duration: 6 days.

Difficulty: AD

Climbing season: May to September

The climb of Quitaraju uses the same access route as Alpamayo, since it is located next to it. However, the 800m vertical ice wall (60-80 ° ) is more technical, and the descent follows a different route.

Itinerary:

Day 1 : Huaraz - Cashapampa - Pacchac.

The access to Quitaraju starts with a trek to Santa Cruz valley. After loading to gear to donkeys, we trek for approximately 4 hours. The first 2 hours are on steep slope. We then reach the first camp.

Day 2 : Pacchac- Base camp (4,400m)

6-hour trek on moderate slope, using donkeys.

Day 3 : Base camp to Camp 1 (5,500m)

We reach the moraine and then enter the glacier to climb to camp 1, on 45 - 60 degree hard packed snow. The climb takes approx. 5 hours .

Day 4 : Camp 1 - summit – base camp

We start the ascent at 3 am for a 5 hour ascent of the ice wall. After reaching the summit, the descent takes 3 hours to camp1, and 2 hours more to base camp where we spend the night.

Day 5 : base camp to Jatuncocha.

Return to Jatuncocha and Ichicocha, the mid-point betweeen base camp and Cashapampa. From the glacier, the descent takes about 6 hours.

Day 6 : Jatuncocha - Huaraz.

The descent takes about 5 hours to Cashapampa, and then we continue by transportation to Huaraz.

EXPEDITION COSTS INCLUDE:

- When you arrive to huaraz we pick up you to the hotel by taxi.

- 2 nights lodging in Huaraz (double bed, breakfast included)

- Private local transportation Huaraz - Cashapampa - Huaraz.

- Mountain guide, porters and cook.

- Donkeys to carry the common gear (tents, food and fuel) as well as  donkeys to carry personal gear (up to 20 kg per person)

- Kitchen gear and cooking facilities at base camp (including dining tent, chairs, cooking tent).

- Food for the whole duration of the climb (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is included.

 * The meals include: omelets, sups, fresh fruits, ahuacate, spaghettis meats, rice all them rich in carbohydrates, excellent to recover all the energy you lose during the trek and climbing, also include drinks as: tea, coffee, milk breads, popcorn  and coco tea good for altitude sickness.

- Climbing gear: rope, plastic boots, harness, ice axes

- Camping gear: 4 season tent

- First aid kit

- Check-up for oxygen to assess acclimatization level of each client.

- Entry to National Park Huascarán.

Not included:

- Personal trekking and climbing gear (sleeping bag, sleeping mattress etc..)

- Personal expenses.

- The prices can change according to the date and number of persons, please catch up us on the web for more information.

Recommended gear:
Lightweight walking shoes/sandals/socks/pants/short pants/T-shirts (long sleeve and short sleeve)/sunglasses/sunscreen/plastic bags/warm sleeping bag /light weight trekking boots/wool socks/light weight treeking pants/waterproof pants and jacket/fleece/Goretex/hat/mits or warm gloves/thermal liners/camera/bandana or hat against sun/headlamp with extra batteries.
Safety Individual gear:
Glacier glasses 100% UV with rigid case (2 pair recommended)/ goggles/ sunscreen with maximum protection/lipbalm/4 season sleeping bag/ sleeping pad or thermarest/hat/thermal underwear/fleece jacket/fleece pants/down jacket/Goretex jacket or similar material/2 pairs of gloves or mittens/ pair of thermal glove liners/2 pairs of thermal sock liners/plastic boots/gaiters